Cod Primavera
Make a luxurious version of this dish with boneless halibut. Frozen artichoke hearts are simple to use and become flavorful in this mix of roasted vegetables.
You have to cheat a little to put spring on the plate this time of year. If you want to make a primavera (from the Italian, alla primavera means in the style of spring), you have no other choice. There are no fresh peas, but plenty of frozen sweet ones. Other greens come from markets in warmer climates. You can find plenty of sweet onions and fennel with bushy fronds. There are small carrots and parsnips; these sweet roots give the garnish a little heft. Artichokes and asparagus are in season, though some cooks see fresh artichokes and walk in the other direction (we prefer frozen artichoke hearts, much less fussy). After months of hearty roots and big bowls of mashed potatoes, the greens are especially welcome.
Combine a generous array of these vegetables in a big roasting pan and let them steam under foil in their own juices for half an hour, then uncover them and keep roasting until everything’s tender. While they finish cooking, slide beautiful white cod (halibut if you’re feeling rich) beside the vegetables to roast under a parchment paper blanket until the flesh is firm, opaque, and bright white.
Set aside some of the vegetables for a pasta primavera with penne or shells. Use the pasta cooking water, Parmesan, and lemon rind to make a quick ricotta sauce. Your pasta will be light and just right for the spring table. Primavera is in the eyes of the beholder.
Olive oil (for sprinkling)
Salt and pepper, to taste
1 pound carrots, cut into 2-inch lengths
4 parsnips, cut into 2-inch lengths
2 packages (9 ounces each) frozen artichoke hearts
1 bulb fresh fennel, trimmed, halved, and thinly sliced
2 bunches asparagus, ends snapped off and asparagus cut into 2-inch lengths
1 sweet onion, halved and thickly sliced
1 package (1 pound) frozen peas, rinsed in cold water
1 1/2 pounds skinless boneless thickly cut cod, cut into 4 pieces
Few sprigs fresh lemon thyme, leaves coarsely chopped
1 lemon, cut into quarters (for serving)
1. Set the oven at 400 degrees. Have on hand a large roasting pan. Oil a baking dish.
2. Bring a large saucepan of salted water to a boil.
3. Drop the carrots and parsnips into the boiling water and cook for 3 minutes. Add the artichoke hearts and continue cooking 1 minute more. Drain the vegetables into a colander and rinse with cold water until they are no longer hot. Shake the colander to remove excess moisture.
4. In the roasting pan, spread the blanched vegetables. Add the fennel, asparagus, and onion. With your hands, turn the vegetables to mix them. Sprinkle with olive oil, salt, and pepper.
5. Cover with foil. Roast the vegetables for 30 minutes.
6. Remove and discard the foil. Turn the vegetables gently. Turn the oven temperature up to 450 degrees. Continue roasting for 30 minutes, turning once or twice, or until the vegetables are tender.
7. Spread the peas on the roasted vegetables. Stir well. Return the vegetables to the oven for 5 minutes or until the peas are hot. (Total roasting time is 65 minutes.)
8. About 15 minutes before the vegetables are done, set the cod, skinned side down, in the baking dish. Rub the fish with oil, salt, and pepper. Press a piece of parchment paper directly onto the fish. Roast the fish for 10 to 12 minutes or until it is cooked through and flakes easily.
9. Remove 4 cups roasted vegetables and set aside for the pasta primavera. Set a piece of cod on each of 4 plates. Garnish with roasted vegetables and sprinkle them with thyme. Serve with lemon.
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