Legumes

Lentils were once hippie food, then chefs decided they were elegant enough to serve as a bed under rosy lamb or roast salmon, as an accompaniment to poultry, or in hearty bowls flavored with bacon. These little legumes, which are packed with protein and sophisticated flavor, can also be a vegetarian entree. The best ones are the small, dark green French lentils (sometimes labeled le Puy), which have a cleaner flavor and a more toothsome texture than their larger, light green counterparts.

Hardly show-offs, the Bordeaux wines priced less than $20 are workmanlike, perhaps a little brash, but they are fine to accompany a straightforward plate of food. A chicken casserole that is satisfyingly sturdy, a little rustic if you will, is thoroughly appropriate for the modest Bordeaux. For the earthiness of the wines you have lentils. For their whisper of spice, cumin. The radicchio insinuates a bitter edge, to confront the tannins in some of the wines. In keeping with the price, everyday chicken thighs soak up these flavors.