Vegetarian

Traditional risotto is made with starchy medium-grain Italian rice. This “risotto,” modeled on a dish we had in Tel Aviv, uses pearl couscous (which actually is a pasta) and a cooking technique similar to the classic risotto method to produce “grains” with a rich, creamy consistency. The wheaty flavor of pearl couscous (sometimes called Israeli couscous) is nicely complemented by the salty, nutty notes of Parmesan cheese and the grassiness of fresh parsley.

Rice and lentils with caramelized onions is a much-loved food in the Middle East. This is our take on the version we tasted in Lebanon. The rice and lentils are simmered together in the same pot, with the lentils getting a 10-minute head start so both finish at the same time. Meanwhile, the onions are fried until crisp and deeply caramelized — almost burnt, really — to coax out a savory bittersweet flavor.

We set out to develop a recipe for a vibrantly spiced pearl barley salad with the right balance of sweetness, tang, and nuttiness. Before we could focus on building these exciting flavors, we had to find a consistent cooking method for our barley. We wanted the grains to remain distinct, rather than cohesive as in a pilaf. We turned to what we call the “pasta method,” in which we simply boil the grains until tender. With our perfectly cooked barley set aside, we turned our attention back to flavor.

The base of this bowl, hearty, nutty farro, is traditionally associated with Italy and flavor profiles of the western Mediterranean, but it takes well to a variety of ingredients. For toppings, we chose crispy seared tofu planks, which we attractively fanned on top of the grains, along with a simple sauté of mushrooms, shallot, and spinach. We partnered these easy-to-prepare toppings with a potent miso-ginger sauce, which is enhanced with a little vegan mayo for body so that it's the perfect consistency for drizzling.

The unusual combination of rosemary and ginger is delicious with the sweetness of carrots. We shred both the carrots and the onion so the vegetables soften quickly and puree easily. Use the large holes on a box grater or, for speed, the shredding disk of a food processor. If you own an immersion blender, use it to puree the soup directly in the pan.

Almonds toasted in olive oil with harissa (use the spice blend, not the paste) serve double duty here, first as a base for the flavor-packed vegetarian soup and then as a garnish that adds contrasting texture. Simmered and pureed with tender cauliflower, the nuts add a unique richness and body. If you own an immersion blender, the soup can be pureed directly in the pot.

For our roasted fennel, we began by cutting the bulbs into wedges, which had two benefits: It provided good surface area for browning, and the attached core kept the pieces intact. Covering the pieces with foil for most of the cooking time allowed them to steam and turn creamy; we then removed the foil for the last 10 minutes of roasting so that they could turn golden and deliciously caramelized. We also tossed the wedges with salted water before covering them, which provided moisture for steaming and helped get seasoning between their layers.

Broccoli Delight was born on a night when I came home from work very hungry and without a plan, and my near-empty fridge came through for me.

It's also a dish that my teenage son claims is the “best thing you make.” While this could be construed as an insult considering how many other things I’ve made for him, I’m pretty sure it’s meant as a compliment, and that what he’s getting at is that pan-roasted broccoli florets bound to one another by melted-crispy sheets of cheese never disappoints.

For creamy, tender roasted fingerlings, we tossed the potatoes with oil and arranged them in a 13 by 9-inch metal baking pan, where they fit snugly in a single layer. Covering the pan with foil to start helped the potatoes steam instead of drying out in the hot oven. Removing the foil and letting the potatoes finish roasting uncovered allowed them to brown for more flavor. Shaking the pan halfway through roasting ensured that the browning was even.

Bathe seared cabbage in turmeric-accented coconut milk until it’s meltingly tender and sweet.